I GOT to thinking these past few months perhaps I’m getting old. I can’t blame the weather. I could blame the cases.

There’s just something about this town just now that needs to give me a point.

“What are you reading, honey?” I asked as the Moll got engrossed in the paper.

“There’s something here I think you need to see and where we need to go,” she drawled.

She’d done it this time. She’d really done it.

“I don’t accept tips for finding things, Tec. I expect to be treated as the lady I am,” said Toots.

“This is it, my dear. You have found me the point I was looking for.

“Ardnamurchan Point. Well, they just call it Ardnamurchan, but it’s right here in Glasgow.

“Be outside in five. I’m firing up the Buick.”

My excitement is because the story in the paper confirmed what I’d heard.

There’s a new kid on the block, the creation of established operators in the city. Their dream is now a reality, bringing contemporary Scottish cuisine to the north end of Hope Street, just opposite the Theatre Royal.

“Oh, Tec, this looks grand,” said the fine one as we walked into a delightfully tiled and sumptuously lit restaurant called Ardnamurchan.

Just as we walked in, I spotted one of the subtle quirks of the place, just there, on the foot rail by the bar.

The rail nestles on brass forms of the letter “A”, in the style of the company logo.

“Good evening, sir. You’re no doubt the detective we’ve heard tale of if you notice that so sharply,” said mine fine host.

We were guided up three steps and along towards the kitchen hatch where we had a very pleasant table.

The Doll sat facing the kitchen (she was fascinated); I looked across the restaurant towards the theatre

Truth be told, I looked all around the place. It is very open, but there are nooks and crannies as well.

There are white and green tiles; exposed woods and lighting; a welcoming, warm atmosphere; no intrusive, just be ever-so-aware-it-is-there music in the background.

The attentive staff are always on hand but never hovering.

“They’re gliding, Tec,” observed Toots over her glass of Pinot Grigio delle Venezie. “Be careful you don’t start sliding,” I winked as we both had a second glass.

We found this as suggested: fresh with a fine, delicate and slightly spicy bouquet with a hint of tropical fruit on the finish.

The meal arrived. Her ladyship had ordered Stornoway black pudding fritters with a whisky marmalade and dressed leaves.

One bite and she became Sally as I sat as bewildered as Harry.

“Oh, Tec! Oh! That is just so, so good!” she said, thankfully not as loudly as the movie.

I tried a bite myself. Divine.

But I was immersed in my own little world with the South Uist landed langoustines.

I chose to have them grilled with garlic and parsley butter. The meat just fell away from those scarlet little bodies and melted in the mouth.

“We’ve a table of 60 coming in tonight, sir,” said one of the staff.

I was delighted to hear that for the new-start business, but in no small way pleased they would be landing after we’d gone.

“It’s a lovely place, is it no, Tec? Lots of people here but you cannae hear a big noise.”

And that was so true. It was busy but quiet.

“A bit like me, doll, eh?” suggested Toots as she leaned across the table sprinkling her magic once more.

“Eh, the salt, dear. You’ve knocked over the salt.”

“Oh, dear. Sorry, Tec”

For mains, my companion chose the breast of free range chicken with a truffle and honey mustard cream on clapshot with green beans.

It was succulent and the truffle was just in the right place to make this a classic dish.

I travelled with the Ardnamurchan Estate braised venison shoulder with gnocchi dumplings and a redcurrant and red wine reduction with mushrooms and cybies.

Now, I wouldn’t normally choose a dish with gnocchi, usually because in the past, well, they haven’t been up to much, so it puts me off.

I could have taken a plate of Ardnamurchan’s gnocchi all on its own. Plump, well-textured, beautifully cooked.

I’m a man who likes my venison and that’s the first deer I’ve known so little and liked so well.

We were tempted by an excellent cheese board and a dreamy Chocolate cremaux with poached strawberries and caramelised oats.

We could have lingered longer but had plans, so had to get going.

“You know, doll. Did I ever tell you I have family connections to Ardnamurchan?”

“Oh Tec! You big devil, you. I don't think you have.”

“I just happen to know the man who put the power at the point. He installed the engines at Ardnamurchan Lighthouse.”

“Oh you are a man of parts right enough, Tec.

“And I’m pretty pleased we were installed here tonight. It’s a dream!”


325 Hope Street, Glasgow G2 3PT

Tel: 0141 353 1500


Pre-theatre £17.95 per person (three courses)

South Uist landed langoustines (£2.50 supplement)

Stornoway black pudding fritters

Free range chicken

Braised venison shoulder

Chocolate cremaux

Selection of Scottish cheeses (£2 supplement)


Il Cassone Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, Italy £23



Atmosphere – 4 stars

Food – 4 stars

Service – 4 stars