SIX by Nico. Three years ago, in their first week of opening, I was sceptical – but enthusiastic.

Chef Nico Simeone had a concept. A big culinary idea for an already crowded Finnieston. Six courses, inspired by a theme or memory. Available for six weeks. Then the kitchen completely resets and goes in a different direction. It was a fantastic first meal, but, you know... Still, to this day, when I explain what it’s all about, people can be slightly incredulous. We’re creatures of habit in this city. We return to the same places, for the same familiar dishes. Is there a future in all this theatre of food?

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I vividly remember telling Nico I would be back, as I walked out on to Argyle Street that day. I meant it, but I was not entirely sure if the place would still be there when I looked behind me. Since then, Six by Nico has become a Glasgow export with restaurants in Manchester, Liverpool, Edinburgh and Belfast. There’s a restaurant on the South Side as well. I have been back. Regularly. Each time, it’s interesting to see what direction they go with the menu. Today, we’re heading for The Alps. Appropriate, as a passing thundershower drops sleet outside.

You’ve got until Sunday, March 29, to catch this one. Here’s what to expect: Raclette fondue with a skewer of crispy pig’s head and a cube of quince; salmon on the Rhine with pumpkin, horseradish emulsion, apple and dill dressing – I know that sounds like a lot, but it turns out well balanced and delightful.

Glasgow Times:

There’s a tartiflette. I had to Google this one. It’s a dish from Savoy. It’s made with potatoes, reblochon cheese, lardons and onions. Walnuts and barbecued broccoli are added in this instance. It’s class, and surprisingly layered.

There’s risotto du crozets – wee square-shaped pasta bits with hen-of-the-wood mushrooms, a sparkle of truffle and pesto bianco.

Then a chicken and pork farcon, hispi cabbage, sauerkraut ketchup and meat sauce. For dessert, it’s snowballs, presented with coconut and pistachio parfait, passion fruit caramel and chargrilled pineapple.

That’s our tour of The Alps concluded. If you see him at work, Nico looks very serious. I’ve tried to interview him a couple of times. He’s very calm, for a chef. He smiles when he talks about family and staff. Usually his mind seems to be elsewhere. In the kitchen, probably. He can get animated when talking about ingredients – almost like an idea is forming in his mind about a new menu.

For more on the city’s food scene, you can buy a copy of Glasgow’s 100 Best Restaurants at