GOVANHILL really is the best part of Glasgow for a takeaway.

This is not open for debate or discussion.

Sure - as this paper reported earlier this week - the owner of the Italian restaurant at the bottom of Vicky Road might threaten to smash your head in if you question his parking. But, even if his people skills are atrocious, his food is some of the best in the city.

Generally, the food, the service, the choice in this part of the southside is second to none.

Transylvanian coffee shops nestle next to hipster taco joints and Kurdish falafel bars. You can buy the finest shawarma in the city and still have change from a fiver.

If, like me, you're spending your pandemic overfeeding your overly anxious face then there are far worse places to be than Govanhill.

So, I have to disagree with my colleague on our sister paper the Herald, who claimed in his review of Little Hoi An, that it was located in a “Culinary No Mans Land”.

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Nevertheless that review was a corker, and one that has left me salivating at the prospect of getting to this little part of Vietnam on Allison Street.

It took me months to get here, but I’m glad I did.

The big change between that review and this review is that coronavirus has forced Little Hoi An to move from sit in to takeaway only - at the time of going to press that seems to still be the case.

When I told Julie the boss that it was my first time, she seemed genuinely excited, and couldn’t wait to hear what I thought.

I thought it was great.

My partner and I ordered the wok-fried, twice-cooked pork. It was the weekly special when we ordered and might not be available if you try and order it this week.

Which is a real shame for you. The meat was perfect, and the greens had a real bite.

The chicken coconut curry was fragrant and light and delicate.

Grandpa’s dumplings - prawn and pork - were moreish, and, if anything too few in number. Everything they do here is MSG free, and they use as little oil and as little salt as possible. It makes it all just that bit cleaner and fresher.

Which is probably why the veggie crispy roll are as good as they are. I wasn't expecting the highlight of my meal to be a veggie crispy roll. I've had more than my fair share of veggie crispy rolls. I like a veggie crispy roll. I thought I knew what a good veggie crispy roll tasted like. It turns out I didn't.

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Little Hoi An's pastry was perfect, the filling full of taste and a million miles away from most other veggie crispy rolls that you’ll have probably ever had.

The service was exceptionally efficient. You phone, place your order, say when you want to pick it up and when you get there, the food’s ready and waiting and piping hot.

Though I’m told you have to phone up early, if you want to secure your first choice of collection time - Little Hoi An itself recommends you phone days in advance.

It’s reasonable value for money, with a regularly changing menu. I can't recommend it enough.